It is freezing in Hanoi right now, all thing being relative. My coworkers shudder in furry coats, doors keep closing everywhere to keep the draft at bay, and let me tell you – SOUP is on the menu, as if it ever stops being in Southeast Asia but you know.
“The origins of dinner tonight, will be attributed to Sapa, in the Lao Cai province of northwestern Vietnam. They like to play with fire a lot up there. It will happen, on the other hand, on the side of the road in Hanoi. Thank you.”
Christmas in Hanoi, so far, is the occasional bony Santa-mannequin (the one on our street plays a saxophone!), the odd waft of warbled carols heard like hauntings every few days, and in the expatriate shops at least, a lot of the same cheese that happens at home, but that only serves to remind that I […]
There’s a small phở shack high in the Tam Đảo mountains. Seventy kilometres away from Hanoi, two hours by car, maybe more by motorbike, nondescript in every way, and perfect. My first impression might have been coloured by the fact that it was midnight and I was drunk, and I know that there’s superlative soup in […]
Warning: some of the images in this post may be disturbing. One of the eggs I took home started bleeding. Bright red arterial blood that pooled out from an impact crack like a horror-show wellspring from a vampire’s touch. I wish I could say I was surprised, but I wasn’t, not really. Aghast, and […]
The Street Food Map of Hanoi (Some places are discovered by me; some are recommended from The New Hanoian; some from Stickyrice blog; some from Gastronomy blog. It’s a work in constant progress.) I first tasted genuine street food in Taipei. Some towering psychedelic sundae of shaved ice, technicolour jellies, candied strange fruit pieces, condensed milk […]
Moving to Hanoi is not something that idlers and the idyllically inclined should do. The city breathes fumes – the thick paste-grey in the sky owes to the never ending rush of scooters that race around the warren-like streets… and is matched only by the billowing wafts of steam and woodsmoke that puff out from […]